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Information and tips to enjoy Mexico City: sightseeing, services, events, culture, history, shows...
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Glittering celebrations
(1692-1759)

Atrio Catedral

Life in New Spain brought to the public arena the spledour of catholic ceremonies.Preaches of death and human misery helped to collect great founds for the Church. On the other hand, the great mineral production allowed mexicans to build the magnificent historical center of Mexico City.
During the XVIII Century, mexicans developed a particular taste for celebrations and outdoor life, gastronomical feasts where fleshy and spiritual expressions mixed during "novenas", demostrations, self-punishments, cloister conversations and even into the spicy dishes prepared by nuns.

San Francisco
Recipies for delight

 

The abundance of chilli peppers, herbs and spices wandered through the works of art in the city as in a baroque stage which imported from Spain and addorned with local taste. Its influence reached the altar pieces, state houses and even was painted the crockery, coffers and silverware. Indian sensibility was ease at applying exotic designs from Cathai, Philippines and Macao which eventually climbed up to the domes in the way of tiles.

During the XVII Centrury Mexico City adquire its character, but at the begining of the XVIII Century viewed a frantic constructive activity, specially at monasteries and nuneries. There were enough resources to make expensive reconstructions and even completely new churches such as San Francisco Church in 1716, the famous Profesa Church in 1736, the elegant Santo Domingo church also in 1736 and the franciscan Propaganda Fide where the monks departed to cristianize California.

Overwhelming growth

In spite of the rigid squared design of the city, new populated areas appeared and social demands multiplied. This pushed the construction of several schools such as the great San Ildefonso (1749), San Pedro y San Pablo. Girls also had beautiful buildings such as the huge Viscaínas School (1752). However, hygienic conditions did not correspond to such artistic buildins. In response to venereal deseases the Hospital del Amor de Dios was created but neither this actions could stop other epidemics and floods. Dams were built, streets were covered with cobblestones. Squares like El Volador and Parián adquired more importance since most of them served as marketplaces.

The commercial activity even reached the Vicerigal Palace and was the opportunity to show the amazing variety of creole mixture of costumes. In this fascinating "New World Theater" everyone had its place and played roles such as china, coyote, mulato, no te entiendo... It made possible to social classes to come together and show their origin. For nobles it was essencial to bear a coat of arms and a palace. Now we are able to admire the "House of Tiles", which belonged to the Count of Valle de Orizaba, or the Palace of the Count of Santiago and enter the splendid Palace of the Marquee of Moncada and Jaral de Berrio.

 

Coats of Arms

The new noblety didn't hesitate in renting the lower floors of their palaces to make more profit. If they wished to relax nothig was better than building a country house in Tlalpan, Tacubaya or San Angel. If you hadn't enogh money to bear a title you might buy a public charge because noblety meant many expenses: donations to the Church, convents, banquets and balls. Your heirs were to assure a proper marriage or become priest. If a guirl didn't marry only the convent could save her. But the richest model of noblety became from the Viceroy and his family, who brought the latest fashion and costumes from Europe.

But most of the city buildings were inhabitated by merchants, some independent professionals, artisans and even indian nobles. Most of them hired their homes from great merchants or monasteries. Two centuries after the arrival of Europeans the Indian and Spanish neighborhoods mixed and in 1717 the city was divided into militarly zones. The most distinctive group were the Creoles, who promoted the love for their homeland and the presence of local saints, but only San Felipe de Jesús was admited by the Catholic Church. Jesuits became wealthy sugar cane enterprenurs, were closely related with Creols and promoted the worship of the American Virgin of Guadalupe. This activities made them suspicios of rebellion and induced the Crown in Madrid to expell them from the hispanic kigndoms at once in 1767.

 

Abundance

In order to control the colonial commerce a large Customs building was built in front of Santo Domingo Square and the Mint was established inside the Vicerigal Palace. The tax system watched closely over the city's most profitable activities: coin minting for the China commerce and silverwork for Europe. The very center of social activity was the Cathedral, which inaugurated its largest altarpiece in 1737. It's "Stipite" Baroque style was so succesful that every church in the city ordered new altars an the style became common in the wealthy regions of Bajío and even reached California.

Inside the Cathedral gold leaf that covered altarpieces and multiplied its glitter in illuminated books, music compositions and bell rings. Outside there were too many coaches, horses and vendors. Many "pulquerías" served alcoholic agave drink and at homes card games gathered all kinds of people. However, the bloody excess of bullfights and cockfights were the dearest public games.

The colonial economy was strongly centralized in Mexico City and social life was quite more liberal than in Spain. The most contradictory issue was religous life, which was far from being peaceful and was pointed of being corrupted. Civil life showed deep economic differences and poverty abounded too. In some public events many drunk people started fights, others drinked to forget hunger and lack of opportunities.

Suggested books:

Jonathan I. Israel
Race, Class and Politics in Colonial Mexico
Oxford. Oxford University Press, 1975.

Brian Hammet
A Concise History of Mexico
Cambridge University Press, 1999

 

 

 

 

 

 

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