Wining & Dining

" Yes sir: you can also stuff your taco with avocado, hot sauce and fresh cheese; with chicharron, carnitas and mole with rice ". This is just one of the phrases that any self-respecting host would use to tempt his guest's palate. The fact is, the nation's capital brings together, in a wanton display of gluttony, pre-Hispanic ritual, generous and fragrant dishes from Spain, monastic sweetmeats and spiced delights, all multiplied by the culinary influence of nearly forty different regions of the country, French victuals and even the inevitable fast food.

When visiting the city -as well as other parts of the country- it is well worthwhile to tour one of the local markets in which a huge variety of fruits, herbs and flowers will fill the air with their heady aroma and colorful displays. In the downtown area the best bets are the la Merced market (selling all manner of goods), the San Juan market (regional products and oriental and kosher culinary specialties), the Sonora market (medicinal herbs) and the Abelardo L. Rodriguez market (herbs and foodstuffs). Ready to satisfy all hungry patrons, and offering typical meals, these markets offer places to eat which range from small stalls to luncheon counters and cozy restaurants where the fixed menu is the order of the day.

In these markets is where it becomes quite clear that Mexican cuisine genuinely favors fresh products. From this nation's kitchens to the rest of the world came corn, chile, squash, cactus leaves, tomato and avocado, fragrant vanilla and delicious chocolate. Traditional Mexican cuisine demands a delicate touch and infinite patience, not to mention time-tested recipes passed down from generation to generation.

This multitude of flavors can be sampled in any one of the city's traditional restaurants, some of them having a long tradition of service. The modern age gave rise to the New Mexican Cuisine, which seeks new combinations, moderate portions and a tasteful presentation. For its part, the resurgence of Mexico's heritage can be found in the preparation of pre-Hispanic dishes, which will surprise any patron with delicately flavored flowers and insects, and slices of turkey or rabbit wrapped in aromatic leaves.

The city also offers numerous restaurants serving international cuisine, above all those with French or Spanish-style dishes. In each case it is customary to start with an aperitif and to accompany the meal with wine or another refreshing drink, but the food-tasting can prove even more satisfying if it is conducted in one of the many excellent cantinas, where tasty snacks are traditionally offered to accompany drinks and to enliven the conversation; or in one of the city's sophisticated bars with an international flair or the close-to-extinct pulquerias, popular watering holes where tribute is paid to Mayaguel, goddess of the pre-Hispanic pulque drink. The delicate enzymatic balance of this libation does not permit the wider-ranging travels of its more distilled relatives: mezcal and tequila.

Customs surrounding food and eating are closely linked to the particular occasion and to the social origin of the guests and even to the time of year, something which in a city of so many social classes and origins can make it difficult to find a common cause. However, three separate culinary institutions can serve as examples:

• The almuerzo is a meal which follows breakfast (in particular if this was only a light meal), and is the perfect occasion to try tamales and atole, or a cooked dish accompanied with tortillas or chilaquiles.
  
  

• Lunch, served between 1:00 p.m. and 4:00 p.m. in the afternoon, is generally heavier than in other countries, and is the ideal moment to incorporate spices and condiments. The first dish is usually of soup or rice, followed by a main cooked dish and then, if desired, a sweet or dessert. All washed down with freshly-prepared natural fruit drinks.
  
  

• The merienda, in the early evening, is a family affair where sweet flavors dominate: Spanish-style hot chocolate or champurrado, quaintly-named pastries and hot snacks: enchiladas, pambazos, tamales, quesadillas, sopes or tacos.

Many of these meals are served in the traditional or more modern cafès that can be found in the city, but any street corner or bus stop will have an improvised stall set up to satisfy the discerning requirements of the true devotee of the antojito. It is best to be cautious when eating at one of these stalls as hygiene is not one of their strong points.