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Guadalupe Shrine
North of the Valley of Mexico there is
a hill called Tepeyac which means Nose-hill. Its Indian name brings with it the memory
of the goddess Tonanzin ("our mother") who once was worshiped in the area.
The tradition of La Villa de Guadalupe, as it is now known, involves a miracle and
an Indian saint: manifested in the apocalyptic fashion of the Virgin emblazoned in
rough cloth, brought to the attention of XVI century
Indians living their own end of the world, the image then fascinated Creoles, who
multiplied it until it became a national phenomena in the XIX century. It was the
Indian Diego whose vision of Virgin Mary in 1531 started a saga of stories that aided
the conversion of millions of Indians to Catholicism and became a symbol of Mexican
people around the world.
Today la Villa de Guadalupe is a place worth visiting no matter your religion. Why
is this sanctuary so attractive? Here are some facts that point to the answer.
 Past links the present
La Villa de Guadalupe like many modern sanctuaries in Mexico found its origin
in sacred hills and caves, however its location north of Mexico City has given it
national importance. Before the XVI century the site was connected with Mexico-Tenochtitlan
by a road built on the water in the same way as Tlacopan and Iztapalapa avenues:
twin roads with an inner water channel and removable bridges. During Colonial times
this road was named Santa Ana, which started at Tlaltelolco. In 1675 monuments were
built to mark up the Holly Mysteries of the Rosary that gave its name "Calzada
de los Misterios." Because of the popularity of the Shrine, another avenue
was built in 1791, named after the Virgin: "Calzada de Guadalupe."
The nomination of Guadalupe is a hundred percent Spanish but it could have been linked
both with an Indian goddess Tlatzoichpochtli ("wonderful bride") and a
sanctuary of Extremadura, Spain. It is possible that the Franciscans observed the
interest of Indians in the site and turned it into the Catholic worship of the Virgin.
The actual painting is clearly one of several popular icons of the XVI century that
can be seen in early printings and murals. It is probably also that the painter was
Marcos Cipac de Aquino who live at that time.
The Basílica
In the North side of the Americas Square there is a church that used to house
the image of the Virgin, from the beginning of the XVII century until 1976, when
the new Basilica was built following the design of architect Pedro Ramírez
Vázquez. The former building, in contrast, has the features of Pedro de Arrieta's
style: Baroque forms and refined ornaments that include volcanic red stone and colored
tiles on the domes and bell towers.
Just beside the church you can see the former Capuchin convent, built in a massive
classical style. If you stand in the middle of the square, under a contemporary solar
clock you will have the perspective of all the buildings, however it is usually plenty
of food and souvenir stands.
Massive worship
The new Basilica has a vast, rounded interior space that can hold thousands of pilgrims,
allow for multiple masses and the permanent exhibition of the icon so it can be viewed
from many perspectives. Pilgrims can even approach from moving walkways beneath
the altar. The great organ music and the light from stained-glass windows that surround
the building add the proper atmosphere for the mass. During the Virgin's feast on
December 12 more than 40,000 people gather in the square, which is turned into an
open air chapel that resembles the XVI century ceremonies when thousand of Indians
were baptized. The Indian presence is now staged by glittering dancers performing
mestizo flutes and archeological drums. Such a human concentration is not confortable
for anyone, and produces an icredible amount of rubbish and attracts thiefs.
 La Guadalupana
Ceremonies are no doubt an impressive event that envolves music, pray, faith
and even curiosity, but recently the worship has spread as Mexicans migrate to the
United States and Europe bringing their home altars, T-shirts, candles and paraphernalia.
Many works of art inspired in the Guadalupana - ex-votos (thanksgiving folk paintings),
altars, paintings and sculptures - are exhibited in museums. There are also interesting
chapels, like the Hill Chapel "El Cerrito" and Water Well Chapel "El
Pocito," an exquisite example of late XVIII century architecture.
If you have time stroll along the gardens, where you will eventually find The Offering
scupture and lots of couples and families enjoing the open air. Don't miss visiting
the museum, at the back of the old Basílica that holds a large collection
of religous art of a very good quality.
Every traveler is indeed a pilgrim, so the chance of visiting Guadalupe Shrine ties
us to those hidden links with Mystery.
From Historic Centre take metro Line 3 at Hidalgo
and transfer with Line 6 at Deportivo 18 de Marzo to the next station La
Villa Basílica. Then walk north two busy blocks until reaching the Square.
From Zona Rosa take a Pesero or Bus in Reforma Avenue up to terminal near Basílica.
Be aware of taxis.
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